Indore - Not just a paradise for food lovers but more!

Darbar Hall, Rajwada, Indore

How many times does it happen that when you go on a trip to a certain place and want to write about it at the earliest, but then end up getting lost in the mist of procrastination! If you think it happens often in your case, then 'High five!' because we're on the same page. I went on this road trip in December,2016 with my parents and I could only manage to share my travel experiences of Dhar, Mandu, Maheshwar and Omkareshwar on the blog, so far. However, the trip didn't end there. We also spent some time in Indore. Now, almost after a year I'm finally working on the post which was long due. Yes, I'm going to re-live and share the memories of my trip to Indore thru a picture story. Indore, a place that's well known for the mouth watering cuisine, the royal family of Holkars and a place that has given us greats like Lata Mangeshkar, Rahul Dravid, Johny Walker, Rahat Indori and many others (all were born in Indore).


To start the proceedings, one must always start with sweets and when the post is about Indore then there is no hiding from foodie stuff on the blog. So, Beware in Advance!

Kuch meetha ho jaaye!!

Since, I had spent 4 years of my childhood in Indore; some faint memories of Rajwada, Lalbagh Palace, Khajrana Temple, Sarafa and Chappan lingered in my mind. Out of curiosity, I asked my father to take a trip down memory lane and explore those places. He agreed and first place on our agenda was the Lalbagh Palace.

Lalbagh Palace

Lalbagh Palace, as the name suggests it looks like a royal mansion. The Palace was constructed as a small garden house in 1890 under the reign of Shivaji Rao Holkar. However, it took the shape of a Palace in the early 1900's under the reign of Tukoji Rao III. Tukoji Rao III spent the second half of his life at the Lalbagh Palace and extended the palace, decorated and furnished it in Western style architecture. The palace stands on the bank of a tributary of river Khan. The kitchen and outhouse are located on the opposite side of the river. There is an interesting fact about the connectivity of the kitchen to the basement of the palace. The pantry in the basement of the palace was connected by the tunnel with the kitchen on the opposite bank of the river and that's how the food used to be supplied to the pantry and then to the banquet hall by a Dumbwaiter.

Lalbagh Palace

Lalbagh Palace

The Palace was designed with great detail and considering even the minute factors. On the ground floor of the palace, one can see the Library, State office, Lounge, Billiards room, Crown hall, Council and Dining hall, Banquet hall and the Wooden dancing hall. On the first floor, one can see the Study room, King's Bedroom, Queen's Bedroom with attached bathroom. Apart from the architecture, the palace has a wonderful garden as well which used to be the highlight for the variety of flowers and trees planted in Tukoji Rao's period. The design of the palace has the influence of European Architecture. I always enjoy exploring the historical places and Lalbagh Palace is one such place that's wonderfully maintained by the State Archaeology of Madhya Pradesh. However, the worst part is that people mostly come here for a picnic and they hardly spend time and effort in getting to know about this majestic palace.

Rajwada, Indore

Next place on our agenda was Rajwada, a place that reflects the history of Holkars. It's one of the oldest monuments in Indore and worn many stories under its sleeve that are to be told.

Rajwada, Indore

Rajwada, the seven-storey structure was first built by Subedar Malhar Rao Holkar I, about two centuries ago for residential purpose. Later in 1801 it was destroyed by the Commander-in-chief of Scindias and then again was rebuilt by the Holkars in 1818. If we go by history, Rajwada was burnt down thrice in 1801, 1834 and recently in 1984. The palace is located in the heart of the city and is surrounded by the main street market. It has a magnificent 7-storey gateway in front and a park ahead of the structure with Devi Ahiliyabai's statue installed in the middle of it. As we make way through the entrance, the pigeons welcome us with the chirpy sound and to the courtyard that comprises of Ganesha hall on ground floor and Darbar hall (a perfect example of French style architecture) above it on the first floor. The architecture of the monument is of Maratha style. Rajwada is a State Archaeology protected site and the history of Holkars and Indore can be seen through the pictures exhibited in one of the halls located on the first floor of the 7-storey structure.

Ganesh Hall and Darbar Hall, Rajwada

Window (Mughal style architecture)

Rajwada showcases the life of the city that it once was in the era of Holkars. It's for sure a place that is a must-visit when in Indore. Also, on the rear side of the monument, one can also visit the temple and garden located around the Tulsi Kund.

Temple, Tulsi Kund.

Now, my favorite section of the post. I'm going to talk or rather just share pictures of/about food, food and loads of food.When it comes to street food, Indore is a heaven! Though I'm not from Indore but the taste that touched my heart when I was only 4 years old is still intact. I still remember the Shahi samosa, Khopra pattis, Shikanji, Dhokla, Dahi vada, Sweets and what not. So, this time around, I had in my mind from the very first day that I'm not going to miss out on having a street food tour.

Staple food of Malwa region

Poha-Jalebi (a deadly combo)

As there was time crunch and I had to make a decision to choose either Sarafa or Chappan. I contemplated and chose Chappan over Sarafa. Chappan, especially for Khopra pattis, Shikanji, Sweets and Johny Hot Dog.

Khopra Pattis esp. with chutni (World famous hai ji)

And the tour started with Khopra pattis, Samosa chaat, Kachori chaat, Rabri, Ras malai to name a few...

Dahi Samosa Chaat

Dahi Kachori Chaat

Ras malai

Rabdi

Garma garam aloo tikiya

I've several other food pictures as well but I really don't want to torture my readers just by giving them a virtual experience. Though I'd admit that the experience of tasting all these things was far more consuming than posting pictures to re-create the same.

How to reach Indore from Bhopal....

Bhopal → Sehore → Ashta → Dewas → Indore




Previous Posts from this trip:

Hidden Gems of Madhya Pradesh - Dhar

Mandu - A place that resonates with history..

Walk the talk with city of Maheshwar...

Omkareshwar- A sacred land of Shiva..





Note: Few details have been taken as a reference from State Archaeology's monuments guide.

Walk the talk with city of Maheshwar...

Ahilya Fort and Ghat

I haven't been writing much lately and the series of posts (from the last year road trip) which I had to complete a long back are still pending. Though it's difficult to recollect everything, I'm trying to post at-least what I have remember from the trip.

A colorful house on the street

About Maheshwar...

In the last post, I shared my experiences of my visit to Mandu. The trip was planned well in advance and we were going as per the plan, so the next place in our itinerary was one of the oldest cities of Madhya Pradesh i.e. Maheshwar. Maheshwar is located at a distance of 40-45 km approx from Mandu. It used to be known as Mahishmati and mentioned in the epics of Ramayana and Mahabharata under its old name. Does the name ring a bell? Mahishmati from the epic 'Bahubali' series. Well, if you have started relating things then please don't go further and pull back your thoughts. It ain't the same Mahishmati but the city has great significance in the Indian history.

Doorway

Maheshwar is situated on the banks of the holy river Narmada. It's a small town but is known for many great things.In the 18th century, Holkar Queen Rani Ahilyabai of Indore revived the soul of the city and shifted the Holkar capital from Indore to Maheshwar. Under her reign, the city witnessed a great transformation; a lot of buildings were built and public works were completed. Since Ahilyabai was a great devotee of Lord Shiva, she built many temples and ghats across the country, including the Lord Shiva Temple on the ghats of Narmada. The temple has astounding architecture and since it's built adjacent to the Ahilya Fort, the view one gets from the top of the fort is surreal.

Temples on the Maheshwar Ghat

One of the many temples along the ghats of Narmada

Ahilyeshwar Temple (Top View)

Now, a recap of where we started our journey from and what all we covered. Here's the itinerary-


Bhopal → Dhar → Mandu → Maheshwar → Omkareshwar → Indore → Bhopal

Ahilyeshwar Temple

Our Journey...


Our plan was quite tight and we had to cover the remaining monuments in Mandu then Maheshwar and Omkareshwar on the same day. Therefore, we started early and reached Maheshwar at twelve noon. Though it was winter season, the sun was belching fire.We all were hungry and tired. I thought it would be better to fill the tummy first and then explore the ghat and temples. While I was parking the car my father noticed a board alongside road:  'Shudh Saatvik Pavitra Bhojan' and the rest I'm unable to recollect that what all I ate that day. I was hungry like a Sher - 'Bhooka Sher'. :P 
And the feeling of  'Bhagwan sabke dil ki baat sunte hai' was proved 100% true!!

Carved artwork on the doorway

  After the meal, we walked down to the Ahilyeshwar Temple and spent some time at the Ghat. Since it was quite hot we couldn't manage to take the boat ride.


Apart from the majestic Ahilyeshwar Temple, there is a Chhatri (Cenotaph) of Vithoji adjacent to the temple in the precincts of the Maheshwar Fort. The artwork on the Chhatri (Cenotaph), Temple, Jharokhe, Windows, Overhanging balconies and Doorways tells a great story about the place and the artisans employed for carving spectacular designs on the Windows and Doorways of Fort.  Devi Ahilyabai had a great vision and all the works completed in her reign proves that.

Chhatri of Vithoji Rao Holkar

Entrance of Ahilyeswar temple

After visiting the temple, we went on to visit the Rajgaddi and Rajwada (of Devi Ahilyabai) built within the Fort complex. Within the complex, there are other collectibles of the Holkar Dynasty that are kept in other rooms for public display.

As we had to leave for Omkareshwar the same day, we started from Maheshwar at 2 pm. Maheshwar is also very famous for Maheshwari Silk and Cotton Sarees, so before leaving my mother did some shopping and then we left for the holy city of Omkareshwar.

Carved overhanging balconies and the doorway

 

Also, it would be wrong if I do not mention that Maheshwar is one of the few cities of Madhya Pradesh that has attracted the Film Industry many-a-times. There are many movies and TV shows that have been shot in Maheshwar. Ashoka, Yamla Pagla Deewana, Tevar, Bajirao Mastani and Jhansi Ki Rani to name a few.

Royal Palace

 

Devi Ahilyabai's statue

Maheswari Sarees

Best Season... 

July to February


Where to stay...


Narmada Retreat (MP Tourism)


How to reach Maheshwar via Mandu from Bhopal...

Bhopal → Sehore → Dewas → Indore → Pithampur → Dhar → Mandu → Dhamnod → Maheshwar

Previous Posts from this trip: 

Hidden Gems of Madhya Pradesh - Dhar 

Mandu - A place that resonates with history..  

Note: Few details have been taken as a reference from Incredible Madhya Pradesh.

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Mandu - A place that resonates with history..

Hindola Mahal

In the last blog post, I had covered the city of Dhar and all the places to explore in and around Dhar. Hopefully, you must have got a taste of the rich historical relevance of the city with some known and unknown facts. Well, since it was a great day out at Dhar, I would like to introduce you all to the more interesting and historically known place i.e. Mandu also known as the "City of Joy" (named by Muslim Rulers in their reign). So, the journey started from Bhopal and then after covering Dhar, there couldn't be a better place than Mandu to explore further and it was a perfect decision that we took as there was so much to look around and capture the memories in camera. 

Whenever we talk about Madhya Pradesh, the first place that comes to our mind is Khajuraho or any Wildlife Sanctuary, as MP is quite rich in Flora and Fauna and covers a lot of forest area. We also often talk about Orchha and the vast history it holds with all the Mughal - Rajput rulers and their unheard stories. But there is one more place in M.P. that is equally beautiful and possess centuries-old tales of Parmara Kingdom - Muslim rulers and also the Mughal influence. Yes, the city of Mandu holds a rich historical background and some great stories to be told to every history enthusiast. 

Please find the itinerary below, which I shared in my earlier post as well

Itinerary was...

Bhopal → Dhar → Mandu → Maheshwar → Omkareshwar → Indore  → Bhopal

Sunset from Baz-Bahadur Palace

About Mandu...  

Mandu is located at a distance of 40-45 km approx from Dhar. Since Dhar falls en-route to Mandu, so it's always better to cover "Dhar" first and then leave for Mandu. Mandu being the hill fort has an attractive natural scenery, which looks the best in the rainy season. The city was also famous because of its natural safeguard (hills as fort walls for defense) it used to provide in the early times when fighting a battle on the ground was always preferable than climbing the hill to out-dare for the battle. Also, Jehangir, the Mughal ruler had a great place for Mandu in his heart who once told that there is no place as pleasant and beautiful than Mandu. As I read in one of the books on Mandu, it's said that Mandu city was first founded in the sixth century but it's known more because of the ecstatic architecture built from early 15th century until the end of Muslim rulers period in late 16th century. From the 10th century, the Parmara kings like Munja and Bhoja also had a great influence in Mandu and Munja Tal i.e. Tank can be seen in Mandu, today as well. After the Muslim rulers, Mughals and Marathas also ruled over Mandu for good stint. Though, most of the architectural ruins present in Mandu today, are from the Muslim period only i.e. prior to the Mughal period.

Capturing the captured, Jahaz Mahal

Let's sink-in in the history and explore the architectural gems of Mandu...

There are various monuments that are in good condition and one can find the well-detailed architecture up close. Most of the ruins are protected by Archaeological Survey of India and some by State Archaeology department. And one must appreciate the efforts put in by the ASI and State authorities to keep this 500-600 years old heritage in good condition. 

When we reached Mandu, the place had so much to offer and a story to narrate of its surreal beauty in each one of our minds. With the word go, Mandu started unfolding its marvelous gems and one could see the centuries old gates raised by Muslim rulers to mark their mantle. Our first stop in Mandu was the famous Jahaz Mahal, fortunately where we were staying too for the night in nearby Taveli Mahal guest house (within the precincts of Jahaz Mahal). We dropped our luggage in the restroom and headed for Roopmati Pavillion, to witness the serene sunset view.

Play of light and shadow, Jahaz Mahal

1) Roopmati Pavilion:

Roopmati Pavilion is well known as the monument where Rani Roopmati used to pay the visit for the darshan of sacred Narmada river, the stream of which can be seen from the top of Roopmati Pavilion. Also, to keep clear sight at Baz Bahadur Palace where the queen's beloved Baz Bahadur used to live. Their love tales are very famous in Mandu and everyone has a different yet interesting story to tell. 

To enjoy the beauty of this stunning monument one should visit it at the time of sunset. Also, from the top of Roopmati Pavilion, one can see the low lying areas with a carpet of greenery and many other mesmerizing monuments located in lower regions.

Epitome of love, Roopmati Pavilion

From the terrace of Ran Roopmati Pavilion

2) Baz Bahadur's Palace:

Situated on the slope of a hill just before the Roopmati Pavillion, Baz Bahadur's Palace is a great example of well planned and structured monument. There are few steps as we enter in the Baz Bahadur's palace and few halls, humongous rooms and open court. The spectacular architecture with intricate details just makes us feel like that we're transported to centuries back in a different world altogether. One can also see the Rani Roopmati Pavilion from the Baz Bahadur's palace which also narrates the love tale of Baz Bahadur and Rani Rupamati.

The courtyard of Baz Bahadur Palace

Rewa Kund, a reservoir built under Baz Bahadur's reign, is situated just a few meters away from the Baz Bahadur's palace. It was built to supply water to Baz Bahadur's palace and Roopmati's Pavilion. It's considered as an architectural marvel as the use of such developed technology in the 16th century was of great significance.

Rewa Kund

3) Jahaz Mahal:

Jahaz Mahal is one of the most famous monuments in Mandu and is very well kept by the ASI. Since we stayed in Taveli Mahal, the view of Jahaz Mahal was exquisite at the night and with the first strike of sun rays on the Jahaz Mahal, it made the whole scenic beauty of the Mahal even more exemplary. With Munja and Kapur tanks on the either side of the Jahaz Mahal, makes it appear like a Ship Palace floating in the sea. Though the water tanks were not full in December we heard the same bio of the place from many locals. The grandeur of Jahaz Mahal in itself speaks a lot and describes the love and joy which used to be the main highlight of the palace in the reign of Muslim rulers. The corridors, halls, chattris, tombs and beautiful "Jharokhas", everything is so royal and magnificent that even today's artisans would feel and wish like if they had born in that era.

Wide view of Jahaz Mahal from Taveli Mahal

A peek into history

We have our own Greek architecture in Mandu...

4) Hindola Mahal:

Hindola Mahal literally means a swinging palace. Its sidewalls give a peculiar sloping impression that makes this monument quite different from others. Though the architecture of this palace is simple, huge arches and sloping sidewalls make it look amazingly different yet marvelous. 

Hindola Mahal (Swinging Palace)

5) Jami Majid:

Jami Masjid is by far the most protected and majestic monument of Mandu. As soon as we enter from the huge gate of Jami Masjid, this flawless, next to perfect monument awaits for your appreciation. The courtyard, arches, and domes take you to the European Architecture, where the awe-struck feeling strikes you more often than not. I personally found this as the most magical place in Mandu and a rich example of architectural brilliance. 

Side view of Jami Masjid- An architectural marvel

Corridors of Jami Masjid

6) Hoshang Shah's Tomb:

It's said that Hoshang Shah's Tomb was the first marble structure ever built in India. Also, the Afghan architecture was so impressive and stunning that even Shah Jahan sent his architects to meet the builders of the Tomb to pay homage and study about the tomb for the construction of Taj Mahal in Agra. The tomb from inside has the mausoleum on the square marble platform in the middle of the hall. The intricate design and beautiful internal architecture set it apart from other ruins present in Mandu.

Hoshang Shah's Tomb

Natural 3D image of a corridor

7) Asharfi Palace:

Asharfi Palace is situated in the front of Jami Masjid. Apart from stairs to the gateway, there is nothing more left of the seven story-ed building ruins. Once, it was the highest building in India and now there are only ruins left of the palace. People say that it was built in very small time and that's the reason why it collapsed completely.

Entrance to the Asharfi Mahal

People gazing at the beauty of more than 600 years old architecture

Best time to visit....

Best time to visit Mandu is from August to February. In the summer season, it gets very hot to dedicate enough time to each place. So, it's always preferable to plan a trip here in the second half of the year.

Jahaz Mahal (A ship palace floating in the sea)

Timings....

Every spot opens at sunrise and closes at sunset.


Entry Fee and details....

The entry fee was nominal at most of the places and at some places, we don't even have to pay the entry fee.

One of the centuries-old ruins

How to reach Dhar from Bhopal....

Bhopal → Sehore → Ashta → Dewas → Indore → Pithampur → Dhar → Mandu



PS: Special thanks to my father. I took all the liberty and asked him to guide us throughout the tour. Being an archaeologist, he was fully aware of the places and history behind them.


Previous Posts from this trip:

Hidden Gems of Madhya Pradesh - Dhar


This is my entry for Trip Experts Awards 2017 by TripScam. Thanks Deepa for nominating me. Here are the rules for the contest.

Note: Few details have been taken as a reference from Incredible Madhya Pradesh.